Sunday, 29 April 2012

Same same but different

"What do you miss most about Peru?" asked friend (having just received present of Peruvian brand 'Fanny' mustard)
-"The heat."
I say, wearing a thin little 50s-style tea dress and high heels I put on for the cold April evening at home 'to cheer myself up' (first time I've tried this in a long while. It worked, and was worth being chilly. I'd been wearing a much-loved giant wool cardigan that belonged to my grandmother all day. As much as it is one of my favourite things in the world, the sleeves are too long and impractical for work, and I mostly feel like a clumsy sheep).
The same friend said I should keep blogging, and that was all it took. That on top of the odd blog-related ego stroke that I'd received over the past few weeks.

The glorious high of being back from abroad in a mini March heat wave with a glowing tan and catching up with everyone and being very busy and exotic came to a withered end, and everything was the same as before but without this big trip I'd been looking forward to for 6 months. Queue plan of action (or ¿QuĂ© plan of action?)

It's brilliant going away and doing something you love in an exciting place with a great group of people but, more often than not, it's temporary. I only met one person in Peru who could not wait to get home and live in their home town forever (one of my favourite people, in fact). Most other people, and especially the ones who have been away the longest, feel a certain dread about the 'what next' and 'the life I had before won't be enough now'. Then, just occasionally, you get the other extreme of deeply tanned, multi-lingual eternal travellers who have had a lifetime of drifting, unable to settle in any way shape or form. Those are the ones (in my experience) that seem to either cry or fly in to a rage about life when they've had a few too many cuba libres. Nobody really wants to be those ones, do they? A girl/boy in every port, extensive romantic email correspondence to keep up (Facebook must be a nightmare to manage), worldly possessions filling one smallish rucksack and a general air of dissatisfaction under the various gripping tales of adventure. (Apologies but I tend to do stereotyping in a big way. Just blame it on my theatrical background).

So if you don't become a natural fibre-clad nomad, what is next? You get "life plus" in these travel/work abroad situations - a big, very close and culturally diverse community, the reality of extreme poverty in front of you every day, intense heat, brighter colours, noises, smells, breathtaking sunsets, warm nights and so much outdoors, activity and constant stimulation. Most lifestyles would be pretty bland after that. (I say this, I was at a meeting at my 'day job' the other day that got interrupted first by a dog coming in, then by the dog's bed coming in and finally by a photographer taking photos of the meeting (not because of the dog, this was a completely separate issue). Not entirely usual...)

However, the sun-baked nomads don't seem happy to me. They constantly talk about their enviable lifestyle, as a kind of affirmation to themselves. No, that is not the way to go.

Spoilt for choice, footloose and fancy free, I endeavour to explore what is the way to go. Not my way to go necessarily, I'm interested in the balance between satisfying itchy feet and becoming a sort of lost drifter whose feet never land anywhere.



For over three years, I've been working for a mental health charity and the issue of happiness or wellbeing is constantly cropping up in media monitoring, press requests, promoting our services etc etc. So it's something I've become increasingly interested in. Added to that, I've been meeting more and more people of my generation who are experiencing some sort of late-twenties/early-thirties crisis. Did our parents have this, or is it a new thing? Are we all just a bunch of overgrown brats spoiled by endless opportunities and credit cards?

How have I been beating post-adventure, back to reality flatness? (I hasten to add here that 6 weeks is not the same as, say, a year. I have a job that I like and I don't live with my parents. I am 10 steps ahead of some others who I plan to quiz about this. I can feel instantly cheery about a new shoot appearing on the orchid on my desk (it sounds lame but there really is something in that plant on the desk tip)). I have many tactics. However, the favourite Oxford-based replacement for surfing/jungle trekking/mountains etc:
climbing.
With some basic experience and a shiny, just about the right size harness, I started back up immediately post-trip. There is nothing like terrifying and exhausting yourself and then defying every fibre of your being that's saying "GET DOWN FROM HERE!" and actually getting to the top when it seemed impossible. No, 364 days of the year you can't go for a balmy sunset beer afterwards, but overcoming deep seated fears combined with adrenalin and endorphins is not to be underestimated. And that's only indoors, as a beginner. These are exciting times.

Since I now can't remember a time when it wasn't raining in Oxford, indoor climbing is one of a few very good things. Another involves paper mache, but that's another story. Now, I'm going to catch up with some of those deep in post-adventure "what now?" crisis and see what amusing, insightful blog material I can garner.

Monday, 9 April 2012

10 is a nice round number

I couldn't just leave it there. I didn't intend to drag it out for another two weeks either but there's less time for blogging in real life. People keep asking me if I miss it (Peru, not the blogging). I do but it was only ever going to be as long as it was so it's like missing the time time that you were on holiday, or a short course you went on. I do miss having my washing done, and dried and folded the same day for about £2, and getting taxis everywhere (and arguing over the price when the difference is only about 20p).

Some of us were thinking about the cultural differences and how it would go if you were to take some behaviours home.

In a clothes shop:
-How much is this jumper?
-That’s £32.00.  
-What? I’m not paying that.
-Um, ok...
-I’ll give you £20.00 for it.
-I’m sorry but that’s the price, it’s £32.00
Start walking away, looking furtively back for them to change their mind.

Cafe 1:
-Can I get an orange juice to take away?
-I’m sorry, we don’t do take-aways here.
-Can’t I just take it out though?
-We don’t have any take-away cups.
-That’s ok, just put it in a plastic bag with a straw in the top...

Cafe 2:
Go in with two plates and a glass and ask for a take away on those plates and demand to be charged less for it.

Cafe 3:
Spend an entire day in one cafe,  only order 1, or maybe 2 drinks in that time, do some work, have a nap stretched out across a bench, go for a swim in the sea and come back in swimwear and a towel back to finish the one, half-full drink.

On a bus:
At any point on the journey you like, stand up and shout “I’m getting off!”

Call a taxi over:
-I’m going to the shopping mall, will you take me for 45p?
-No, I’ll put it on the meter, it will be about £6.00
-Okay then, 65p.
-No, it will be a minimum of £3.
-Look, if I gather some more people...there are 10 of us: 2 in the front seat, 5 in the back and 3 in the boot. Can we pay 20p each?



So, back to Lima:
On the one hand, it was a shame that I didn't get much time in Lima but, on the other hand, it is a city with a lot in common with most other big cities. It is right on the coast with impressive views on the front but, generally, unless you're living there, a day is probably as good as a week to get a flavour of the place.

I did make the mistake of getting too little sleep on the last night, which was spent with some 2 for 1 Pisco Sours, braving some unbearably hot clubs and then giving up to go and find reasonably priced water and enjoy the night air on the cliff tops. After sitting there for a while, some guinea pigs emerged from the undergrowth, presumably escaped from wherever it was they were being reared for oven roasting whole.

So on my last day, my three tour guides: Nico, Nico's Peruvian friend William + Michael, an ex-SKIP volunteer, also of Mancora trip fame, fuelled me with coffee and dragged me off to see the sights. These included the impressive catacombes and, after my enthusiasm for the Natural History Museum in Cusco (which turned out to be a musty collection of a few stuffed birds, some pickled mutated animals in grubby jars, and a large collection of plastic fruit and vegetables),  got the proper natural history experience in Lima, complete with dinosaurs and even live snakes.

We had a final lunch in a smokey Chinese place, brief nap, a supermarket sweep for treats to take home and then hugs on the pavement before paying far too much for a taxi to the airport because I'd only left myself with a 20 dollar note.

When you haven't really been alone for much more than a second in 6 weeks, the taxi felt very quiet. It was a bit like getting home and not sharing a bedroom with someone for the first time since I went away. Having been surrounded by people since arriving in Trujillo, I'd sort of forgotten that I went there by myself. Luckily though, I did bump in to someone from our trek group at the airport. It's amazing how you cross paths with people at Lima airport and/or on the Inca trail. I think we had 6 such coincidences in 1 week.

That was it really, apart from finishing off some SKIP work back home. I should add that you can subscribe to the SKIP newsletter here (recent edition includes articles from me...):

http://www.skipperu.org/en/you-can-help

You can buy products made by SKIP mothers, and contribute to the economic development project.

http://www.skipperu.org/en/skipshop

And of course you can 'like' them on Facebook.

My photos available on request (or on Facebook). I may continue my marmalade musings along a different theme, but I'm taking at least a short break for a slightly dull, chilly and rather uneventful April.

Here's a couple of pics from the last week in Peru.